May 23

In a couple weeks, the first wines of the campagne des Bordeaux en primeur 2008 are expected, with the first notes of some of the participants. Contrary to last year, it’s expected that the event will finish quite early this year.

A few vintages are already out with discounts expected, from previous years, to sit between 10% and 45%. These early wines have the advantage of more maneuvering room with their prices after the surge in prices in 2005.

Tasting Bordeaux Cercle Rive Droite.
A vintage with little expectation or interest
Scheduled like a non-event, this campaign is currently faced with less than positive fortunes.
The global economy crisis is very real and will still last many more months. The most ambitious owners have even admitted to difficulties, even those who maintained that expansion would continue unabated.
Up till now, despite the depression, few actual sales have been made.
Of course, at these prices, the first vintages will obviously find buyers as the quality is quite high (see the classification below). Others, such as Léoville-Barton and Léoville-Poyferré, positioned themselves perfectly and the market responded well.
La Mission Haut-Brion
One thing is for sure: More than ever the the strength and prestige of the brand, positioning of the price, and the rarity of the wine will be the determining factors for success.
But, don’t forget the key point - the intrinsic success of certain houses! In this strange, unhopeful vintage there will for sure be some significant successes, wines that will be remembered for a long time. Truly moving wines with unique style and originality that will go far. Not everything is assured and known…
Once again, you’ll have to be selective and, above all, never lose sight that following the crowd rarely leads to success. Buying what everybody else is buying might be reassuring but often leads to failure.  Buying selectively when the siren calls have momentarily ceased is a sound plan! Think back to the 2001’s, 2004’s, and some 2002’s.
But this, of course, you already know.
Who would want to live in absolutes?
We don’t want to reignite last year’s debate about absolute or relative notation. I haven’t changed my position. I don’t live in absolutes; it would bore me. You neither, I’d hope… as such an evaluation is only a certain point of view, a piece of the puzzle between various wines, or wines of this or that vintage.

By Jacques Perrin (translated)

Photo: Armand Borlant

Exceptional Wines    *****

Latour    95-97 

Laville Haut-Brion   95-97

Ausone   95

Yquem    95

Great wines ****/*

Cheval Blanc         94-96

Cos d’Estournel     94-96

Ducru-Beaucaillou 94-96

Haut-Brion rouge   94-96

Haut-Brion blanc    94-96

Lafite-Rothschild    94-96

Lafleur   94-96

Mouton-Rothschild    94-96

L’Eglise-Clinet    93-95

La Mondotte   93-95

Léoville Las Cases   93-95

Margaux     93-95

Le Pin   93-95

La Mission Haut-Brion  93-95

Nairac   93-95

Pavie     93-95

Pavie-Macquin    93-95

Petrus     93-95

Pontet-Canet    93-95

Cos d’Estournel : The 2008 is a great success.
Good wines        ****
Domaine de Chevalier rouge  93 

Clos Haut Peyraguey  93

Rabaud-Promis    93

Angélus    92-94

Beauséjour Duffau   92-94

Calon-Ségur    92-94

Canon    92-94

Canon-la-Gaffelière   92-94

Chevalier blanc    92-94

Clos Fourtet   92-94

Clos l’Eglise    92-94

Coutet   92-94

Figeac    92-94

Gazin    92-94

L’Evangile    92-94

Larcis-Ducasse   92-94

Léoville Barton    92-94

Léoville Poyferré  92-94

Palmer  92-94

Pape Clément blanc   92-94

Pavillon blanc de Margaux 92-94

Pichon Baron   92-94

Rieussec   92-94

Smith-Haut-Lafitte blanc  92-94

Suduiraut    92-94

Trotanoy   92-94

Vieux Château Certan  92-94

Château Calon-Ségur: a stylistic change has worked out well.

Good wines (continued)    ****

Bellevue-Mondotte  92 

Lafaurie-Peyraguey   92

Pavie-Decesse    92

Sigalas-Rabaud   92

Beau-Séjour-Bécot   91-93

Branaire-Ducru    91-93

Certan de May    91-93

Doisy-Daëne    91-93

Fargues   91-93

Haut-Bailly    91-93

Hosanna     91-93

La Conseillante    91-93

La Dominique   91-93

La Gaffelière     91-93

Le Gay  91-93
La Violette   91-93 

Malartic-Lagravière blanc  91-93

Montrose   91-93

Pape-Clément rouge  91-93

Pichon Comtesse    91-93

La Tour Blanche    91-93

Troplong-Mondot   91-93

Le Tertre Roteboeuf   91-93

Malartic-Lagravière rouge  90-93 

Péby Faugères   90-93

Belair  90-92

Bellevue   90-92

Clerc-Milon 90-92
Clos La Madeleine  90-92 

Clos Saint-Martin  90-92

Feytit-Clinet  90-92

Fleur Cardinale  90-92

Guiraud   90-92

Haut-Bergey rouge  90-92

La Clotte   90-92

Lafleur Petrus   90-92

Latour à Pomerol  90-92

Petit Mouton  90-92

Prieuré-Lichine  90-92

Providence   90-92

Rauzan-Ségla  90-92

Rayne-Vignault   90-92

Rol Valentin  90-92

Trottevieille   90-92

Vray Croix de Gay 90-92

A (domaine de l’)   90

Berliquet   90

Brane-Cantenac  90

Cantenac-Brown   90

Chapelle d’Ausone   90 

Clinet    90

Cos Labory  90

Fieuzal blanc  90

Forts de Latour   90

Giscours    90

Haut Carles  90

La Passion Haut-Brion  90

Lafon-Rochet    90

Lafon La Tuilerie  90
Lagrange     90 

Langoa-Barton   90

Lynch-Bages   90

Lynch-Moussas   90

Magdelaine   90

Roc de Cambes    90

Saint-Pierre   90

Sociando-Mallet  90

….

The rest is found on Vinifera 40 (expected arrival end of May).
These wines and the others will be evaluated and commented on at the next Vinifera. These were tasted by myself between the 26th of march and the 3rd of april, 2009, at Bordeaux.
These evaluations are, obviously, slices in time of a source matter that is alive and changing with age. Each time it was possible, I took multiple tastings. Most of the wines were blind-tasted, with the exception of the first vintages, a part of the seconds and all those that, for diverse reasons, could only be tasted on property.

May 18

During my last visit to Manila I visited the fish market early in the morning - a unique experience!

It’s almost like a journey back in time; the atmosphere is very similar to what it would’ve been a century ago. Even if the hygiene doesn’t seem great the freshness of the fish is fantastic. A tip though - be sure to show up soon after opening so you get the freshest products, and bring a cooler to keep your purchases cold because fridges are nowhere to be seen at the market. Next time you’re in Manila be sure to stop by the fish market!

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May 12

Cabernet Franc varietal - Anjou region - Mellow rosé wine - 750ml bottle - AOC Cabernet d’Anjou 1970

Halfway between white and red, we offer you a passionate oenological experience thanks to the aged vintages of the Domaine de Bablut in Brissac (49). Christophe Daviau opened his cellars to us and allowed us to obtain vintages vinified by his grandfather in 1966, 1970 and 1975 at Cabernet d’Anjou. Originally quite mellow (20 to 25g/L residual sugar), the sweetness has now nearly disappeared.  Made from old vines with low yields (30 to 40 hL per high density hectare), these wines have defied the decades and offer truly original scent and taste. These wines show a bouquet of fir honey, resin and wax. A unique beverage with a reasonable price that goes well with items such as calf’s sweetbread.

750mL bottle

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AOC Cabernet d’Anjou

To make good use of the soil, preserve biodiveristy and produce quality wines that are good for your health, the Daviau Vineyards undertook a total restructuring in the early 90’s in two steps: 1 - placement of varietals in their preferred soils and territories, as well as carefully planned wine-growing 2 - Between ‘93 and ‘94 an experiment in biodynamics on 3 hectares, and since ‘96 a complete reconversion to organic winemaking. Along with the intensive work done at the vineyard, Christophe Daviau, oenologist, brought his knowledge and experience to modernize the winemaking methods while respecting the raw materials. Christophe Daviau, after his oenologic studies at the Université de Bordeaux II, worked in Australia for 16 moths in the two vineyards of the Rémy Martin society, being responsible for the “oenological experiements” there. In 1990, 27 years old, he returns to the Domaine de Bablut. A rosé of this type would, at first thought, seem strange as an aging wine. This is, however, the method of the Domaine: old vintages that prove their aptitude for aging in Cabernet d’Anjou (1959, 1966, 1967, 1970…).

Varieties: Cabernet franc, Cabernet Sauvignon

Soil: Shale and clay-limestone hills, well exposed to wind and sun. Compared to other areas of the region, the rocky soil permits an increase in concentration and sweetness.

Yield: 40hL per hectare

Annual production (average): 18 600 bottles

Harvest: Manual and machinery, at full maturity, determined by physiological and phenological signs

Winemaking: 100% destemming, pneumatic pressure, slow fermentation in vats. Once the sugar/acid balance is reached, fermentation is slowed by decanting and a reduction in temperature. Settling is performed in springtime by multiple decantings, and finning.

Residual sugars: 20-25g per litre


May 4

Languedoc Region (St Chinian) - Round, rich white wine - 750ml bottle - table wine

An original varietal for the area: La Petite Arvine

Another winegrower talks about it in his blog:

http://lisson.over-blog.com/article-20027088.html

For a long time, the origins of La Petite Arvine perplexed the best specialists. Since the meeting of the Société Internationale Ampélographique in 1878 at Geneve, this varietal has been known to exist nowhere but in Valais, where there are 115 hectares planted. Nowhere else? This is most assuredly a Surprising Wine! Hildegard Horat, swiss winegrower of Assignan, Herault, couldn’t resist his roots and grafted Petite Arvine onto old clairettes.

Chapoutier received authorization to plant this varietal experimentally in Tain l’Hermitage. La Petite Arvine favours exposed hills weak in organic material, but is vulnerable to drought and strong winds. Assignan proves to have conditions favourable to growing Arvine. Even if Assignan is situated in the AOC zone of St Chinian, we find not shale but clay-limestone soils on sandstone handling the winter rains more easily to restore the plants in the summer. Additionally, the 250-300m elevation attenuates the summer heat well.

Fermented dry, Petite Arvine is a defined, virile wine. Its nose is a floral wisteria, with a hint of honey. We can distinguish also hints of citrus, pineapple and rhubarb. It has somewhat high acidity, with a slight salinity. Harvested at maturity, Petit Arvine shows a strong alcohol presence that gives it an aptitude for aging. The Hildegard Horat vintage differs somewhat from this description with a rounder, more yellow stone fruit smell. 2003 marked the vintage with a certain smoothness in the mouth without ending up too soft, with a nice saline finish.

Petite Arvine is found only in Valais and the Val d’Aoste. Rumours run of certain renowned owners, primarily in France and Italy, who show serious interest in Arvine and are performing tests of the variant… in Valais, the planted acreage has more than doubled in the last 10 years. Between 1997 and 2000, more than 10 hectares of Arvine were planted (raising the total from 54.6 to 64.9 hectares).  The variant benefits also from repurposing of more established varietals; in 2002 the variant was already up to 81 hectares. The next year over 100 hectares were dedicated to Petit Arvine and by 2004 that number was up to 115 hectares.

The names Arvine and Petite Arvine are used interchangably these days. La Grande Arvine, a large-fruited variety from a Rèze crossed with an unknown varietal giving cruder wines, has practically disappeared. There is thus not a large chance of confusion through use of the Arvine name to refer specifically to Petite Arvine.

Dry, Arvine meshes well with cheese, fish, and shellfish. Matured, it accompanies foie gras well (the salinity and acidity complement it wonderfully) but also blue cheese where it tastes almost syrupy.

Text from www.fullygrandcru.ch